According to insiders belonging to Breedlove's Circle of Trust and I quote:

"You should NOT use oil-based products on the gloss finish of a Breedlove - it is not necessary. If you want a shine, clean with a soft damp cloth, allow to dry, and then you can wax it if you want."

For those wanting to know about a few other cool products I've been zeroing in on, but apparently are not suibtable for Breedloves:

1. Guitar Honey by Gerlitz...
Here's what the GH site says about it:

It says on my bottle of Guitar Honey for fingerboards, that it contains petroleum distillates. If I get some on the neck finish of my Les Paul electric with nitrocellulose lacquer will it harm the finish?
The Guitar Honey won't hurt a nitrocellulose finish.
Without giving away our formula, I can tell you that 'Guitar Honey' is a mineral oil based formula, which is blended with a very high grade of mineral spirits (for cleansing) along with other proprietary ingredients which give a smooth (not greasy) feel & finish to an instrument's fingerboard. It contains NO silicones or other ingredients which would be harmful to an instrument's fingerboard, frets, binding, finish, inlays or structural adhesives, when used as instructed.

2. Dr. Ducks Axewax and String lube...
Here's what the Dr. says at the website:

* The ultimate Organic cleaning-polishing-moisturizing formula for all guitars and other musical instruments. (including brass, woodwinds, strings, etc..)
* Do the entire instrument (fretboard, headstock, front. sides, back, pickguards).
*CONTAINS NO - WAX, ABRASIVES, SILICONES, SYNTHETICS OR ACIDS!
*It does in fact contain mineral oil not lighter fluid, so it will be very safe to use anywhere on the guitar.

Here's what Dan Roberts of Santa Cruz has to say (thank you Dan!):

We have typically used a boiled linseed oil for the first oil application due to its slight building characteristic... it gives long term protection but to keep using it will cause to much buildup so it's best for the owner to stick to a lemon oil or Dr Duck's axewax or some such formulation. Dr Ducks can be left on a finish for a long time without any etching. Lemon oil will etch but not immediately so it's still pretty safe.

3. I've been using Googlies micro cloths for years and loving it. After I bought my new 68' reissue Custom yesterday, the dude at GC used a 'dw' Drum Polishing Cloth, made of microfibre also. The guit had a smudge or two and he Virtuoso Polished it with that cloth. I have never witnessed anything come away so swirl free and clean/shiny at the same time. I cannot find it for y'all on the web so I just emailed DW. I'll keep you posted if you are interested.

4. Update from personal experience and investigation. In speaking to Edmund Boyle of Fret Doctor, and reading at the Ernie Ball forum about how to care for their unfinished maple birdseye necks, it appears that mineral oils will make the board look darker, which many guitarists want. However, they do nothing to preserve the dimensional stability of the wood, which Fret Doctor does. Dimensional stability cannot be maintained. Cracking and "fret sprout" can occur. Ed suggested using Formby's Deep Cleansing Buildup Remover to take off the old oil on my boards and waxes off the bodies. The cleaners will NOT remove the two worst offenders, which are Linseed Oil and Tung oil. Those two prevent a proper oil from ever penetrating the wood. Dimensional stability cannot be maintained. Cracking and "fret sprout" can occur. I tried it today on an entire SCGC 000 guitar I have. The Formby's left a bit of matte film which I prayed the wax follow-up would take care of as I have used mineral oil type solutions on my entire guitar(s). The SCGC was my test axe.

I followed it up with Renaissance Microcrystalline finest wax in the world according to the guys at the Balls forum and other places I have read. It is museum quality wax. Ed also sells his own version a very similar wax, called Woodwind Wax. I have used it on a Les Paul Custom, a Martin 000-45S and today on the SCGC. All three came out far better than any other wax I have ever used i.e. Virtuoso Wax. Way better shine and 'looks' more protected. These are all lacquered guitars. They look amazing now. I went on to the fretboard and the bridge and used the Formby's again followed up by the Fret Doctor. I gotta believe Ed is right. And so far I am thrilled to have found his site and read his ideas, as my collection for now is too sizeable to take chances screwing up using the wrong products and I don't mind trying it if it sounds right to me. Thanks to Ed Boyle and his kindness for helping me to transfer this information to you. Quite a nice man indeed! I parapharased some of his emails and he edited the post somewhat. Thaks Ed!


Disclaimer: This is all from what we here have read, and experienced. This website assumes no responsibility if you inadvertently overdo or misuse any product referred to in this post. Do your own homework, you'll feel better about buying whatever it is you wind up using or are using now.